Guide
Common Error Codes on LG, Samsung & Whirlpool Washers
Most washer error codes fall into a handful of categories: drainage, water fill, load balance, door lock, or suds. Here's what the most commonly searched codes on LG, Samsung, and Whirlpool washers actually mean, and which ones are worth checking yourself first.
Request ServiceLG washers
OE, UE, and LE codes
Drain error
OE means the washer can't drain the water from the wash cycle, usually because of a kinked drain hose or a clogged drain pump filter. Checking behind the machine for a kinked hose and cleaning the pump filter behind the small access panel are both reasonable first steps.
Unbalanced load
UE means the load is unbalanced. A lowercase uE shows the washer is actively trying to redistribute it; an uppercase UE means it gave up trying. Redistributing the load evenly, adding a small item to balance a too-small load, and confirming the washer is level all address this directly.
Motor locked
LE indicates the motor is locked, often from an overloaded drum or something jammed between the drum and tub. Unplugging the washer for a minute, removing part of the load, and checking that the drum spins freely by hand are worth trying before assuming a motor failure.
Samsung washers
4E, dE, UE, and SUD codes
Water supply error
4E or 4C points to a water supply problem, most often a blocked or kinked inlet hose. Checking that both water valves are fully open, straightening any kinks, and cleaning the mesh filters on the inlet valve resolve this in most cases.
Door lock error
dE is a door or lid lock fault. Confirming nothing is blocking the door and that it's fully latched is the first check; a door lock assembly that still won't engage usually needs a technician.
Excessive suds
SUD means the washer detected too many suds for its sensor to proceed safely, usually from using regular detergent instead of HE detergent or simply using too much. Switching to a high-efficiency, low-sudsing detergent and running an empty hot-water cycle to clear residue typically fixes it.
Whirlpool washers
F21, F02, and LF codes
Long drain
Whirlpool groups F21 and F02 together as long-drain errors, meaning the washer couldn't drain within its expected window, usually a drain pump or hose problem. Clearing the pump filter and checking the drain hose for kinks are the first checks.
Long fill
LF, sometimes shown as F8 E1, means the washer is taking too long to fill. Checking that supply valves are fully open, hoses aren't kinked, and inlet filter screens are clean covers most causes; low household water pressure below 20 psi can also trigger it.
F1, F2, F3
Older Whirlpool models use single F-codes rather than the combination codes on newer machines. These typically point to a specific sensor or control board fault and are harder to diagnose without a model-specific reference or a technician.
What this tells you
Across all three brands, the most common codes fall into the same few buckets: drainage, water fill, load balance, and door lock. Drain and fill codes are usually about a hose, filter, or water valve, load balance codes are about how the wash was loaded, and door lock or suds codes are often solvable with a quick check before assuming anything is broken. A code that keeps returning after these checks, or one tied to a motor, sensor, or control board, is the point where a repair visit makes more sense than continued troubleshooting.
Boise Washer Dryer Repair resources
- Washer Not Draining for a deeper look at drain-related codes
- Washer Repair for issues beyond a code you can clear yourself
- Washer & Dryer Maintenance Guide for preventing repeat error codes
Questions
Error code questions
Can I clear an error code by just resetting the washer?
Sometimes, but a reset only clears the code, not the cause. If the underlying issue, like a clogged filter or an unbalanced load, is still there, the same code usually comes right back.
Which error codes are safe to troubleshoot myself?
Drain, fill, unbalanced load, and suds codes are usually the most DIY-friendly since they often trace back to a hose, filter, load size, or detergent issue. Motor, door lock, and control board codes are harder to diagnose without opening the machine.
Next step
Still seeing the code?
Send the basics now: brand, model, the exact code, and what you've already checked. The more specific the request, the easier it is for a local pro to help.